Hiking Mount Takao

View from halfway point up Mt. Takao

As part of my new life after I first moved to Japan, I wanted to climb some mountains. So I visited one of the most popular spots for hiking near Tokyo, Takao-san. It’s one of the easiest climbs to find near Tokyo. Was it worth it?

Top Tips for Climbing Mt. Takao

  1. Take a backpack and a change of clothes in case the weather changes. The trees are quite tall, so even if the sun is out you may be left in the freezing cold.
  2. Take a bottle of water, and if you want a coffee or soda then buy them at the base where they’re cheaper. 
  3. Bring some cash and coins for the vending machines, or to take the cable car up half way.
  4. Finally, take it slow. It’s not a race so make sure you enjoy the beautiful scenery that Mt Takao offers.
A sign telling you to keep an eye to spot a flying squirrel in the forest at night

Was I Glad I Climbed Mount Takao?

Overall, I would say “Yes”, but it didn’t “blow me away”. I enjoyed the walk, and the views were nice, but reaching the summit felt a little anticlimactic. I think had I gone with a friend, or a group of people, I would have got more out of the experience.

Mount Takao Cable Car Station

My Experience of Climbing Monte Takao

Getting to Mt. Takao

I went via the Chuo train line

This runs from Tokyo Station to Shinjuku Station and then towards Takao Station, and makes the mountain very easy to get to. 

From Takao Station you can either walk 20 minutes to the mountain’s base or catch a connecting train which will take you a little closer, stopping at Takaosanguchi Station

You can also catch a train from Shinjuku Station to Takaosanguchi Station on the Keio Line with a short change over. 

Looking Down At Cable Station And Shops

How long does it take to get fromTokyo to Mount Takao?

It takes between 40-50 minutes from Shinjuku Station to Takao Station, or an extra 15-20 minutes if you’re coming from Tokyo Station.

The base of the mountain isn’t too far from the station, and once there you will notice there are multiple ways to climb up Mount Takao. The easiest option is the cable car. This will take you halfway, but I wanted to do it by foot so I walked.

Past Halfway there is a large shrine area with lots of shops to buy souvenirs

How long to plan for Mt Takao?

It is best to allow for at least a half day trip to Mt Takao, including getting to and from the mountain. From the base of the mountain to the peak takes around 90 minutes on foot by the easiest trail. If you take the chair lift or cable car, you can do it in around 45 minutes.

Past Halfway there are little shortcuts and other tracks which take you to sculptures and other interesting views

The Takao Climb

I walked up Mt Takao in February and I set out a little before midday.  It still felt quite cold, even though it reached a top of 59F that day. I wasn’t sure how hard the climb would be and I wore jeans with several layers on top. I had a backpack with one bottle of water, a muesli bar and some nuts, in case I needed a break. 


I’ll say right now that jeans were a bad idea and it didn’t take me long to realise that. Luckily I could put most of my layers in the backpack, but I really wish I had taken some shorts with me to change into. 


There’s a large map at the base with different track options, from the easy, to the hard, to the scenic. This was my first time climbing Mt Takao so I chose Trail #1, the easiest. Trail #1 still has hard sections, and just when you think you are reaching the top you find several more steps to climb in the last stretch, so getting to the very top could be hard, regardless of your skill. 


I was initially quite cold walking up as the trees were so tall that I was in the shade. I had bought a hot coffee from a vending machine at the base, and I used this to warm my hands with.


I began to warm up after walking about 20 minutes. The track isn’t too steep but the sun was now coming overhead and I had to stop for water a few times. Luckily the track is quite wide initially, and there are some seating options if you need to rest. It wasn’t long before I got to the first shrine, which also allows for a nice view of the city. About 20 minutes later I got to where the cable car stops and there are shops and restaurants, and an even greater view. I found the best view was an outside seating area on top of the restaurants. At the time the restaurant was closed but their seating area was open so I was able to go up and take photos. There were also lots of vending machines nearby with drinks and ice-cream.

Mt.Takao halfway point view

Half Way Up

This area was just the middle, and to reach the top I had to walk a further 45 minutes or so. This final stretch had small walkways and lots of stairs. It became a bit more crowded, which made the climb a lot harder. There were more shrines along the way, and lots of statues to take photos off too. I took it slow, and found it quite enjoyable.


At the summit there are more restaurants, vending machines, and of course the view. 


One of the biggest selling points of Mt Takao is that you can see Mt Fuji on a clear day. In my case, even though it was a clear day near Mt Takao, I wasn’t able to see Mt Fuji because it was covered in cloud. This was unfortunate and I actually found it quite disappointing. It made the trip feel slightly anti-climactic. 


There was a lot of space to walk around or sit at the summit so I wandered around and took my time before deciding I should head back down. There are different tracks down which offer different views, and I was tempted by one that takes you to a waterfall, but I decided to play it safe and go the easy way again.

As I walked down the sun was also going down and the mountain became very cold. Luckily I had brought more than enough clothes. It made me realise how unpredictable the weather can be on a mountain, especially when you spend several hours there.

My Cloud Obstructed View Of Mt. Fuji

So Was Mt. Takao worth it? 


For me, once I got to the top there was only one thing to do, and that was to go back down again. I still think it was worthwhile for the walk, but I wouldn’t put it on a “must do” list.

I do hope to get back to Takao to climb the mountain again one day, try one of the different tracks to be a bit more adventurous, and hopefully catch a better view of Mt. Fuji.

How toPronounce the Japanese Name Takao

Takao is pronounced Tar-Car-Oh, not Tay-kay-yo like some people seem to pronounce it.

Hiking Mount Takao

View from halfway point up Mt. Takao As part of my new life after I first moved to Japan, I wanted to climb some mountains.

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Japanese Architecture in Europe

Torres De Toyo Ito, Barcelona Introduction Japan and the west have a long history trading ideas about architecture, building and construction. Most famously, luminary Frank

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How to move to Japan

A Non-Boring Overview of The Best Options Overview So you want to live in Japan, where the Sushi-fish rides the train more comfortably than the

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James Gaunt is an Australian writer who published his book Making Psyence Fiction in 2020. James previously lived in Tokyo, Japan and has recently returned to Melbourne, Australia. He maintains a keen interest in Japanese music, and publishes regularly on Medium http://medium.com/@jimmyjrg

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At the end you are rewarded with scenes that look like this:

Matsumoto Castle
Swans at Matsumoto Castle

Matsumoto remains one of my favourite cities in Japan.

smells like teen spirit 和訳

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Magic Party Believe In Paradise

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Who is behind this site?

I’m Peter Joseph Head. I lived in Japan for four years as a student at Kyoto City University of the Arts doing a Masters Degree, have toured the country six times playing music and speak Japanese (JLPT N1). I’ve written songs in Japanese and have released several albums through Tokyo label Majikick Records.


Japanese Architecture in Europe

Torres De Toyo Ito, Barcelona


Japan and the west have a long history trading ideas about architecture, building and construction. Most famously, luminary Frank Lloyd Wright, was a big fan. 

He incorporated Japanese ideas into many of the building he designed. In his autobiography he wrote:

Frank lloyd Wright portrait

“I found that Japanese art and
architecture really did have organic character. Their art was nearer to the earth
and a more indigenous product of native conditions of life and work, therefore
more nearly modern as I saw it, than any European civilization alive or dead.”

We looked for a list of Japanese designed buildings outside of Japan, but couldn’t find one. So we made one. We counted up the top 10 Japanese Architects that appear in a Google search and checked where they have popped up shelter of one kind or another. There’s a lot in the U.S., but there’s more in Europe. If you put them on graph, they look like this:

*Skip through to the bottom of the post you can see the full list of architects, countries, cities and buildings. 

In Europe, as far back as the early to mid 1800s, architects such as Augustus Pugin in Britain, most famous for designing the tower of Big Ben, were starting to feel like the Industrial Revolution may be pumping out the products but not the picture-pretty buildings. They started looking to far away times and places for inspiration. Think Gothic architecture rivalism. But also think far-eastern exoticism. In 1862, less than 10 years after Commodore Perry had sailed his Black Ship into Kanagawa to forciblly open Japan to trade, after a couple hundred years of laying low, British architect Edwin Godin designed his house Japanese style. That’s moving with the times.

In the 1880s, things got more wiggy in Belgium. Art Nouveau came into being, with it’s striking geometric patterning owing no small debt Japanese aesthetics.

Geometric patterning in Gustav Klimpt art
Geometric Patterning in Kamisaka Sekka art

Art Nouveau, in turn, influenced the Deutsche Werkbund, a German arts-and-crafts movement, which in turn influenced architects such as Walter Gropius, a key leader of the Bauhaus movement. Gropius said of Japanese architecture:

“the restrained order of the standardized building parts appealed to me as the hallmark of a deeply rooted culture adaptable to any new development”

Europe, and in particular France’s, deep infatuation with Japanese culture goes back more than 150 years in the long tradition of Japonism.

Japanese bridge in painting of Claude Monet

Across the skyline of Europe, we can see that the spirit of Japonism lives on in the buildings and public institutions. Italy, France, Spain and Germany in particular have significant numbers of structures that have been designed by Japanese architects. Japanese construction is renowned for it’s attention detail, as can be seen in such smaller constructions as their intricate puzzle boxes.

In collaboration with BusinessGetaway, we’ve put together a list of 10 examples of amazing buildings in Europe designed by Japanese architects.


  • Barcelona

  • Palau Sant Jordi Olympic sporting arena – Arata isozaki, 1990

Looking perhaps like a structure out of a Star Wars city scape, this ancient-yet-space-age building is a 

 sporting arena built for the 1992 olympics. Weighty, and vaguely militaristic in appearance, is vaguely reminiscent of a samurai helmet or armour.
Palau_Sant_Jordi Arata isozaki
  • Torres de Toyo Ito & Torre Realia BCN – Toyo Ito

  • Clearly referencing eachother from a colour perspective, while differing dramatically in form, these two towers appear less as twins than as 2nd cousins hovering awkwardly at a family reunion. There is a grand vision behind the rubbery looking hotel and the stern looking office complex couple. According to interempress.net The towers “are a version of the two Venetian towers that frame the access to the historic grounds of the Fira of Barcelona’s Plaça Espanya”.


  • Paris

  • Unesco Meditation Space – Tadao Ando, 1991

  • In many ways this structure, Commissioned by UNESCO in celebration of their 50th anniversary, hovers on knife edge between tranquility and industrial-age terror. The structure includes granite previously contaminated by radiation in the atom bombing of Hiroshima. The kind of meditation you do here isn’t the “close your eyes and think of the ocean” variety.
Meditation Space Tadao Ando
  • La Defense – Kurokawa Kisho, 1992

  • Kurokawa’s La Defense building is a reference to a reference. Amongst other things, it is a nod to the Grande Arche de la Defense West of Paris. The Grande Arche is, in turn, a nod to perhaps the most famous arch of all, the Arc De Triomphe. But then, the Arc De Triomphe was based on the Arch of Titus in Rome. Being meta isn’t a new thing.
La Defence Kurokawa Kisho
Grande Arche de la Defense
Arc De Triomphe
Arch of Titus

And while we’re on arches, did you know that someone once flew a biplane through the Arc De Triomphe? And that it was shot on a newsreal, with people ambling about and cars going about their business in the foreground? This might be a good opportunity to catch up with the news:

  • Grand Ecran – Kenzo Tange, 1995

  • Perhaps most famous for designing the Peace park in Hiroshima, Kenzo Tange can also design cultural institutions with more light hearted purposes. A multi-use building, the main claim to fame for the building is it’s theatre, larger than a tennis court, which for long time was the biggest in Europe, and is the largest within Paris.
Grand Ecran - Kenzo Tange
  • La Seine Musicale- Shigeru Ban, 2017

This large squashed-egg shape music hall features a massive wall of solar panels that moves with the sun. It doesn’t get much more ambitious than that. 

The architects said “The form of the solar panel is inspired by a sail, so we can compare La Seine Musicale to a sailing ship.”

La Seine Shigeru Ban
  • Louvre Lens – SANAA, Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa

  • Creating a new Louvre is a tall ask. In tackling the problem, Kazuyo Sejima nad Ryue Nishizawa chose to keep a low profile. They created a series of low buildings that are almost entirely made of glass and materials that reflect back the local environment. It is a supreme attempt at creating an invisible building.
Lens Louvre


  • Milan

  • Allianz Towers – Arata Isozaki

The idea behind the Allianz Towers was, in the words of the architects “to develop the idea of ​​a skyscraper without a limit”.  To do this they used “a modular system that can be repeated in an infinite way with any limit”. Basically the idea is to have repeated patterns that make you think the structure could go on forever. 

But probably the most striking feature of the building is how thin it is compared to its height. In fact, the architects designed it so thin that they had to put reinforcing bars at the building’s base. Trying a bit too hard for the visual gimmick? You be the judge.

Allianz Towers Arata isozaki


  • Neuss

  • Langen Foundation – Tadao Ando, 2004

Marianne Langen liked Japanese art. Her collection was based around Japanese items, many of which her husband, Victor, had collected on his many business trips to the land of the rising sun. It makes sense that they chose Japanese artist Tadao Ando to design the building. 

Stylistically, the building has similarities to the Louvre building above, but with a much more solid core. It is more a construction of “double skins” than a reflection of its surroundings.

Another point of interest is that the gallery is built on the site of what was a NATO rocket base. That’s Make Art not War writ large.

Langen Foundation

List of buildings European buildings designed by Japanese Architects

Arranged by country for the top ten architects appearing in a Google search

AustraliaBond University Library / Humanities Building / Administration BuildingGold coast1989Arata Isozaki
ChinaShenzhen Cultural CenterShenzhen2007Arata Isozaki
ChinaChuo Art Academy MuseumBeijing2007Arata Isozaki
ChinaChina Wetland MuseumHangzhou2009Arata Isozaki
ChinaShanghai Sedai Himalayan Arts CenterShanghai2010Arata Isozaki
ChinaChina International Architecture and Art ExhibitionNanjing2011Arata Isozaki
ChinaShanghai Symphony Orchestra Concert HallShanghai2013Arata Isozaki
ChinaHarbin Concert HallHarbin2015Arata Isozaki
EgypNational Egyptian Museum Museum Exhibition ProjectCairo1986Arata Isozaki
GermanyBerlin Apartment HouseBerlin1986Arata Isozaki
GreeceMegalon Concert HallThessaloniki2010Arata Isozaki
ItalyTomb of Luigi NonoVenice1994Arata Isozaki
ItalyParasports OlimpicoTurin2005Arata Isozaki
ItalyCity Life Allianz TowerMilan2015Arata Isozaki
PolandKrakow Japanese Art CenterKrakov1994Arata Isozaki
QatarQatar National Convention CenterDoha2011Arata Isozaki
SpainPalau Sant JordiBarcelona1990Arata Isozaki
SpainA Coruña Museum of Human SciencesA Coruña1995Arata Isozaki
SpainParaforth Recreation FacilityParafors1996Arata Isozaki
SpainKaisha FolmeBarcelona2002Arata Isozaki
SpainIsozaki AtheaBilbao2008Arata Isozaki
United StatesHouserman showroomChicago1982Arata Isozaki
United StatesThe PalladiumNew York1985Arata Isozaki
United StatesBjorson House / StudioCalifornia1986Arata Isozaki
United StatesLos Angeles Museum of Contemporary ArtLos Angeles1986Arata Isozaki
United StatesTeam Disney BuildingFlorida1991Arata Isozaki
United StatesOhio 21st Century Science and Industry CenterOhio1999Arata Isozaki
United StatesObscure Horizon (Desert Bed)California2010Arata Isozaki
BrazilEmbassy of Japan in BrazilBrasilia1972Fumihiko Maki
CanadaIzmaili Imamat Memorial HallOntario2008Fumihiko Maki
CanadaAga Khan MuseumOntario2014Fumihiko Maki
ChinaShenzhen Maritime World Cultural Arts CenterShenzhen2017Fumihiko Maki
GermanyIsar Bureau ParkMunich1995Fumihiko Maki
GermanyMaki SolitaireDusseldorf2001Fumihiko Maki
IndiaPatna Vihar MuseumBihar2015Fumihiko Maki
MalaysiaKota Kinabalu Sports Complexmackerel1977Fumihiko Maki
NetherlandsFloating theaterGroningen1996Fumihiko Maki
PeruPeru Low-income low-rise housingLima1972Fumihiko Maki
SingaporeSingapore Science and Technology College CampusWoodland2007Fumihiko Maki
SingaporeSkyline @ Orchard BoulevardOrchard2015Fumihiko Maki
SingaporeSingapore Media CorpOne North2016Fumihiko Maki
SwitzerlandNovartis Campus Square 3Basel2009Fumihiko Maki
United StatesSt. Louis Washington University Steinberg
St. Louis, Missouri1960Fumihiko Maki
United StatesYerhabuena Park Visual Arts CenterSan Francisco1993Fumihiko Maki
United StatesYBG Arts CenterSan Francisco1994Fumihiko Maki
United StatesSt. Louis Washington University Sam Fock
scan Visual Arts Faculty
St. Louis, Missouri2007Fumihiko Maki
United StatesUniversity of Pennsylvania
Annenberg Public Policy Center
Pennsylvania2009Fumihiko Maki
United StatesMIT Media Lab New BuildingMassachusetts2009Fumihiko Maki
United StatesFour World Trade CenterNew York2013Fumihiko Maki
United States51 Astor PlaceNew York2013Fumihiko Maki
United States345 East Village PromenadeNew York2014Fumihiko Maki
FranceLouvre-LensLens2012Kazuyo Sejima
NetherlandsTheater and ArtscentreAlmere2007Kazuyo Sejima
United StatesGrace FarmsNew Canaan2015Kazuyo Sejima
Canada1550 AlberniVancouver2020Kengo Kuma
DenmarkHouse of Fairytales,Odense2020Kengo Kuma
FranceCité des Arts et de la CultureBesançon2013Kengo Kuma
FranceGrand Teklan ( Paris Italia Square)Paris1992Kenzo Tange
FranceNice National Museum of Oriental ArtNice1998Kenzo Tange
ItalyFiera District CenterBologna1985Kenzo Tange
ItalyBMW Italy headquarters buildingSan Donato Milanese1998Kenzo Tange
ItalyCentro DirezionaleNaples1982Kenzo Tange
KuwaitKuwait International AirportKuwait City1979Kenzo Tange
MexicoEmbassy of Japan in MexicoMexico City1976Kenzo Tange
PakistanSupreme Court of Pakistan BuildingIslamanad1993Kenzo Tange
Saudi ArabiaKing Faisal Foundation HeadquartersJeddah1982Kenzo Tange
Saudi ArabiaEmbassy of Japan in Saudi ArabiaRiad1985Kenzo Tange
Saudi ArabiaState Palace of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, Royal Palace of the KingdomJeddah1982Kenzo Tange
SingaporeGB BuildingSingapore1986Kenzo Tange
SingaporeCity Telecommunication CenterSingapore1986Kenzo Tange
SingaporeNanyang Technological UniversitySingapore1986Kenzo Tange
SingaporeSingapore Indoor StadiumCurran1989Kenzo Tange
SingaporeUOB PlazaSingapore1995Kenzo Tange
SingaporeUE SquareSingapore1996Kenzo Tange
SingaporeOUB Center BuildingSingapore1986Kenzo Tange
SyriaDamascus National Palace ( English version )Damascus1981Kenzo Tange
United StatesMinneapolis Art ComplexMinneapolis1974Kenzo Tange
United StatesAmerican Medical Association Headquarters BuildingChicago1990Kenzo Tange
ChinaBamboo Furniture HouseShifosi Village2014Shigeru Ban
FranceCentre Pompidou-Metz museumMetz Shigeru Ban
FranceLa Seine MusicaleIle Seguin Boulogne-Billancourt2017Shigeru Ban
GermanyJapanese PavilionHannover2000Shigeru Ban
New ZealandCardboard CathedralChristchurch2013Shigeru Ban
Sri LankaVilla VistaWeligama Shigeru Ban
TaiwanPaper DomeNantou1999Shigeru Ban
United StatesAspen Art MuseumAspen2014Shigeru Ban
AustriaBus StopKrumbach2014Sou Fujimoto
FranceL’Arbre BlancMontpellier2017Sou Fujimoto
HungaryForest of MusicBudapest2020Sou Fujimoto
ChinaAurora MuseumShanghai2013Tadao Ando
ChinaPearl Art MuseumShanghai2017Tadao Ando
FranceMeditation Space, UNESCOParis1995Tadao Ando
GermanyLangen FoundationNeuss2004Tadao Ando
GermanyVitra Seminar HouseWeil am Rhein1993Tadao Ando
HungaryInterior design of Miklós Ybl VillaBudapest2010Tadao Ando
ItalyFabrica (Benetton Communication Research Center)Villorba2000Tadao Ando
ItalyTeatro Armani-Armani World HeadquartersMilan2001Tadao Ando
ItalyInvisible HousePonzano Veneto2004Tadao Ando
MexicoGate of Creation, Universidad de MonterreyMonterrey2009Tadao Ando
MexicoCentro Roberto Garza Sada of Art Architecture and DesignMonterrey2012Tadao Ando
MexicoCasa WabiPuerto Escondido, Oax2014Tadao Ando
South KoreaGenius LociSeopjikoji2008Tadao Ando
South KoreaBonte MuseumSeogwipo2012Tadao Ando
South KoreaHansol Museum [38] (Museum SAN)Wonju2013Tadao Ando
South KoreaJCC (Jaeneung Culture Center)Seoul2015Tadao Ando
South KoreaGlass HouseSeopjikoji2008Tadao Ando
TaiwanAsia Museum of Modern ArtWufeng, Taichung2013Tadao Ando
United KingdomPiccadilly GardensManchester2003Tadao Ando
United StatesEychaner/Lee HouseChicago, Illinois1997Tadao Ando
United StatesPulitzer Arts FoundationSt. Louis, Missouri2001Tadao Ando
United StatesModern Art Museum of Fort WorthFort Worth, Texas2002Tadao Ando
United StatesMorimoto (restaurant)Chelsea Market, Manhattan2005Tadao Ando
United StatesStone Hill Center expansion for the Clark Art InstituteWilliamstown, Massachusetts2008Tadao Ando
United StatesHouse, stable, and mausoleum for fashion designer and film director Tom Ford’s Cerro Pelon Ranchnear Santa Fe, New Mexico2009Tadao Ando
United StatesVisitor, Exhibition and Conference Center, Clark Art InstituteWilliamstown, Massachusetts2014Tadao Ando
United States152 Elizabeth Street CondominiumsNew York, New York2018Tadao Ando
United StatesWrightwood 659Chicago2018Tadao Ando
AustraliaBlack TeahouseMelbourne2009
Terunobu Fujimori
AustriaStorkriding2012Terunobu Fujimori
GermanyWalking cafeMunich2012
Terunobu Fujimori
ItalyVenetian Biennial
10th International Architecture Exhibition Japan Pavilion
Terunobu Fujimori
TaiwanIrikawa Pavilion ・ Forgotten Tea BoatHsinchu County2010
Terunobu Fujimori
TaiwanLao Xuan XuanYilan County2013
Terunobu Fujimori
TaiwanWangbei Tea PavilionTaipei2014
Terunobu Fujimori
United KingdomBeatles houseLondon2010Terunobu Fujimori
BelgiumBruges pavilionBruges2002Toyo Ito
ChileWhite OMarbella2009Toyo Ito
ItalyHuge Wine GlassPescara2008Toyo Ito
MexicoInternational Museum of the BaroquePuebla2016Toyo Ito
SingaporeVivoCity 2006Toyo Ito
SpainTorre Realia BCN and Hotel Porta Fira,Barcelona2009Toyo Ito
SpainSuites Avenue BuildingBarcelona2009Toyo Ito
TaiwanWorld Games StadiumKaohsiung2008Toyo Ito
Koo Chen-Fu Memorial Library, College of Social Sciences, National Taiwan University
 2014Toyo Ito
Taiwan 2014Toyo Ito

About the Writer

I’m Peter Head. I have succesfully completed the  highest level of the Japanese Language Proficiency Test (N1). I lived in Japan for four years as a student and on working holiday.  I have toured the country six times playing music and singing songs in Japanese and English.

How to move to Japan

A Non-Boring Overview of The Best Options

Some the friendly locals you meet in Japan


So you want to live in Japan, where the Sushi-fish rides the train more comfortably than the sardine salaryman on the Tokyo subway? Where the sakura blooms for 364 days a year and the rivers run with Calpis Soda. Where the onsen bubble out of brooks between smooth stones on every rural street corner.

Well, you should! Japan is awesome. Cliches and kusai stuff aside. I’ve had the preasure and plivilege, to live there twice, once on a working-holiday, which is possibly the greatest compound word created in the last 40 years of the English language, and once as a university student, for around four years all up. 

I find myself drawn back there every year, like the ball of a kendama that always bounces home on it’s string. The food’s great, the people are great, and it’s an intriguing culture that is deep enough that you can go on learning more about it indefinitely. 

So, how do you move to Japan? How can we make this happen? It can be overwhelming trying to crack that nut. 

Where to start? The two major major on offer, as with life more generally, are work or study.

Here’s an info graphic I put together that simply spells out my favourite ideas:

Now, let’s put some of these options under the Japanoscope.


Me during student days with my head in the clouds of sakura

Get Paid To Study!

Psst, let me share with you a secret. There is a system where the Japanese government will actually PAY YOU to live in Japan and study. No, this isn’t some magical, mystical eldorado-like myth. Pinch yourself, this is the real deal. If you are a Japan-fan like me, and are under 35, it’s a no brainer. A no-miso brainer, no less. Is that a scholarship in your pocket, or are you just glad to see me? Let me introduce to you the…

Monbukagakusho Scholarship

Don’t be intimidated by the gratuitous jumble of syllables long enough to take up a whole line of you’re latest literary Haiku, Monbukagakusho actually translates as “you’d be insane not to pack your quill, parchment and i-device, and jump on the plane, you crazy gaijin”. At least that’s how it comes up in my personal dictionary. It may also translate into the equally snappy “Ministry of Education, CuIture, Sports, Science and Technology”. But call them MEXT. They love that. Why no one in the department has taken up the opportunity to throw a “MEXT TEX-MEX Potluck party” is the subject of a whole other blog post.

Nomenclature aside, the salient facts are that  they pay for your travel expenses to get to the country, they give you a living allowance, and you don’t even need to speak any Japanese or nothin’. 

I lucked out in my early 20s to spend three years in Kyoto studying. For further information, just look up “life-changing experience” in your English-Japanese e-jisho

Categories and eligibility for Monbukagakusho Scholarship

Peter Joseph Head and students at Kyoto City University of the Arts
Me hanging with some dubious characters at Kyoto City Univesity of the Arts

Now before you get all hot under the collar, there are some age restrictions (which range from 25 to 35 depending on category), so it’s no good for you silver foxes.

They have several categories for Undergraduate, Research, Teacher Training, Japanese Studies, College of Technology and Specialised Training. I’ve pitched them an idea to instate another category for Sushi-train/human-train comparative epicurean anthropology, but haven’t heard back as yet. 

If you want the full technical details there’s no shortage of info on the interwebs but I would go straight to the horse’s mouth at the Japanese Government Website Here.

In terms of the actual education you may get, my experience was that you go for the experience.  The stuff outside the classroom was the greater of the educations. Japan’s Universities are fairly well renowned for having a lot of students that tend to be coasting their way through. And who can blame them? Having spent years and years of climbing the arduous junior/middle/high school ladder, and with years and years of unpaid zangyo-overtime and 3 day foreign holidays ahead of them, they deserve a window of leisure. It certainly wasn’t uncommon for me to see my fellow scholars having a little nap in class from time to time. I think they justified it as practice for the trains when they are salaryman-OLing it.

Pay Your Own Way

Now this is obviously the less attractive way to do the study thing. But maybe you’re not eligible for the Monbukagakusho gravy train. Or maybe you just can’t get your mouth around that many syllables in one piece of vocab. 

Whatever the case, there are a bunch of Universities that offer courses aimed at people from abroad. Including courses in English language. Hows about the 78 on this list? The Japanese government has a whole site here that is encouraging you to take the plunge. They want you to come. They want you to come and pay them to come. But please see the option above about getting them to pay you to come first. Ahem.

Deeply contemplating the changing of the Momiji leaf colours for autumn as a student in Kyoto.
Or perhaps just lost

How much will you pay for tuition?

Now if you do choose to do things their way, and at this point you may want to look up the word aho in your book of kansai slang, you would pay around $2-3000USD for a semester, which isn’t too bad. But can be much more depending on the course. Here’s a sample of some prices from Gooverseas.com

Tuition for a Semester Through Direct Enrollment (Excluding Housing):

That Kansai Gaidai one really hurts. I once lived with a guy going to Kansai Gaidai who could do capoeira and who loved the band Spitz. I didn’t know how much he was getting himself up to the eyeballs in debt though.

And if you really want to shell out a few squid:

Tuition for a Semester Through a Third-Party Provider (Including Housing):

Work in Japan

“Working Holiday” To Japan

Working holiday Visas are the bomb. My native Australia and Japan invented them in the 1980s. It started by the two countries having a conversation over the back fence when someone kicked the ball too hard. I believe the “working” part was contributed by Japan and the “holiday” part by Australia. Whatever the story, and whether the negotiation team really did consist of Paul Hogan, Mario and Luigi, it really was a fine innovation.

I spent a year making the most of the diplomatic relationship at the tender age of eighteen and it was fabulous and formative. You can find the nitty gritty on the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs site. But if you are too lazy to read that, I know you, as long as you are:

  • Young and beautiful (well, technically, under 30 years of age)
  • come from one of the bitchin’ countries below
  • have a few bucks (read few thousand) stored under your futon,
  • and are not sick, criminal or criminally sick

then you should be good to go. You can work as many hours as you want. But remember, each hour spent working is an hour spent away from the cold Jockey-long glass of the Izakaya.

When I went, I didn’t have any job beforehand.  I didn’t find it hard to seek out gainful employment. But you may not have my rugged good looks and inherent personal charm. 

As an Australian, I was proud to represent the American people as a purveyor of their language

I did a few months fumbling my way teaching English at a Conversation school in a rural town outside Kofu, a few weeks as a general shit-kicker in a “Pension” (similar to a Bed and Breakfast) and another few months as a waiter in a cafe in a Hotel in downtown Hanzomon area Tokyo. Finding a few yen to rub together weren’t no big thing, is what I’m saying.

What Countries Can Do A Working Holiday to Japan?

Here’s the cool-kids list of countries that have a Working Holiday Visa relationship with Japan, and links to where to find out more information. Note the absence of one rather large Northern Hemispherian English speaking nation beginning with the letters U and S. The main diplomatic stumbling block here seems to be the fact that Naomi Osaka speaks American English better than she does Standard-Japanese at her grand-slam press conferences. 

Don’t blame me.


Where to find a job on a working holiday in Japan?

Well you could start by looking for a job at the Japan Association For Working Holiday Makers in Tokyo. That’s how I did it when I went, and I found a job the 2nd day I arrived in Japan.

There are no shortage of companies that can help you find you some left-of-centre jobs to do on a Working Holiday also. World Unite offers a way to get way off the beaten path at the island of Sado, the “sixth biggest island of Japan”. Nice one World Unite. The good people of Sado have pooled their ten-yen pieces to create a promo video about the island here. The narrator script slips intriguingly through a range of pronouns and storytelling perspectives in the piece, which adds to the overall effect.

This is one of the things I did in the “Holiday” part of my working-holiday. Matsuri da!

Teach English In Japan

Don’t look like this when you teach English or you’ll scare people. Also, don’t use that textbook.

Now here’s one you may not have thought of. Why don’t you teach your language that you have been speaking since you were knee high to a semi across the seas in the land of the rising vending machine. You didn’t think of that did you? That’s why you’re still sitting around on the couch in your pyjamas watching reruns of Monkey Magic via a possibly legal, possibly not legal, streaming service instead of adventuring and slotting 100 yen coins into well designed beverage devices on the distant archipelago of your dreams. 

Okay, so this one’s the biggy. Most of the time, when you run into a westerner (don’t you love that term?) in Japan and ask them what they are doing there, they’ll say they are teaching English. Really, convention should be to ask if you are doing something other than teaching. 

If you don’t believe me, here’s a screenshot showing the number of jobs in each industry on Gaijin Pot.

How much money do you earn teaching English in Japan?

Gaijin Pot also provide a nice overview of what you might earn in all the sectors:

Hiring Organization Average monthly earnings pre-tax
JET Programme ¥280,000 (first year) to ¥330,000 (fourth and fifth years)
Dispatch Companies ¥210,000 – ¥250,000 (or more)
Direct Hire ¥280,000
Eikaiwa ¥250,000 (varies significantly by school)
Business English Schools ¥3,800 an hour (¥270,000 if full time)
Universities ¥270,000 for short-term, indirect hires, and around ¥523,800 a month as faculty staff

Let’s start from the top of the table with JET (Japan Exchange and Teaching) 

JET Program

Elementary school kids in Japan, ducking down to have their picture taken by a professional photographer of slight stature

Well, let’s get a little utilitarian about this. We’ll start with the JET program because that’s at the top of the list with a pay of 280,000 per month. It’s also one of the best ways to get really embedded in the culture by being attached to a school within the government school system. It has the full weight of several levels of the Japanese government behind it, so you’re not flailing out in the wind on your own. 

This piece of PR puffery is actually a very nice introduction to the whole deal:

Most people go over as Assistant Language Teachers (ALTs) and help teaching in the classroom. But if your Japanese is pretty smick, or you’ve got some sports skillz, then you can go as a Coordinator of International Relations (CIR), which is a pretty sweet job title, or a Sports Exchange Advisor (SEA), which has quite the elemental ring to it. 

Tired little girl at mall, Yokohama, Japan 2.JPG

Kids work hard in Japan.

Image: Cory Doctorow

I once applied to the JET Program and was accepted as a Coordinator of International Relations, but wasn’t able to take up the offer because of eternal churnings of the maelstrom of life. The application process wasn’t too arduous though, the hardest part is perhaps just having to get references to write you a written statement to submit. The interview wasn’t too hard, and the Japanese part wasn’t no big thing.

There’s no pesky age restriction to apply for JET too. Check out the older dude teaching rugby at the end of the video above. He’s no spring sea-chicken. Good on him. What did Henry Ford say? “Anyone who stops learning is old, whether at twenty or eighty.”

Official JET Program site is here.

Private English Conversation Schools

I never wore a tie when I taught English but things sure look happy when you do

What do you earn as an English Conversation Teacher in Japan?

Expect to earn somewhere in the region of 250-280,000 yen per month, about $2,500 USD. 

English is big business in Japan, so there’s plenty of demand for people that know how to pronounce the word election without causing embarrassment. I taught English for a few months on my working holiday tour-of-duty when I was eighteen. The day after I arrived, I went to a Japan Working Holiday Centre, got a job after a cursory interview, and was on the bus to a rural town to promulgate the Anglophone tongue. Qualifications? Where we’re going, we don’t need qualifications. Not to teach at any of the vast array of English Conversation Schools Eikaiwa 英会話(えいかいわ)around the place anyway. I was literally a couple of months out of high school when I did it. Which is not to say that anyone can do it well. Quite to the contrariously.

There’s a fair crop of large chain as well as small independent schools that you can teach at around the country. 

List of schools that teach

Some of the big ones include 






Shane English School

Glassdoor created this list of a bunch of schools and what they pay per month.:

Company Average Base Salaries in (JPY) from high to low
1 ABC English 277,000
2 AEON Corporation of Japan 275,000
3 Amity 275,000
4 Vantage Japan 274,000
5 ECC Japan 259,000
6 Berlitz 259,000
7 NOVA (Japan) 259,000
8 Shane English School 257,000
9 American Language School 255,000
10 Riso Kyoiku 255,000
11 Model Language Studio 254,000
12 Seiha English Academy 253,000
13 KidsDuo 249,000
14 Interac 248,000
15 Ittti Japan 244,000
16 Gaba Corporation 230,000
17 California Language Institute (Japan) 227,000
18 Coco Juku 225,000
19 One Coin English School 225,000
20 British Culture Academy 214,000

They all have slightly different conditions, so there’s more to it than just a monthly wage. Most of these you can apply to from inside or outside Japan. Some do recruitment drives in your home country. Some will pay for your flights over. Which makes sense, these companies need the teachers.

Some want you to have a degree or teaching certificate before they will sponsor your visa.

Some, such as Berlitz, give you the opportunity to do extra teaching on top of a full time load. So if you’re keen to bring in the bucks, you can set the alarm early and start chatting for cash before most people even arrive at the office.

Teaching at Universities

If you want to earn the big bucks, you might want to angle for a sweet position at a Japanese temple of higher learning. To get the best gigs, you’ll need to have tossed more than one mortarboard into the sky to get some serious post-graduate education and teaching experience. It doesn’t hurt to know a few brainy people too, so doing some shoulder rubbing with the Japan Association of Language Teaching also helps. 

There’s a possible entree into the world via the Westgate agency that can get you some experience in a Japanese university relatively painlessly. Transitions Abroad have a bit more about that little backdoor entree here.There’s some more first hand experience on the Jobs In Japan site here.

Do It Yourself Private English Teaching

If you’re the “don’t fence me in”, “I’m a free soul and I don’t want to tuck in my shirt” type, there are also sites that let you register your services as a teacher. That means you could choose to meet your students at a cafe or a library or, say, an urban golf driving range, uchipanashi meets eikaiwa style (the possibilities are endless). It also means you can earn a lot more per student. 

Hello Sensei is a language marketplace and let’s you charge what you want, ala the share economy. Did someone say premium, advanced linguistic acceleration hourly rates?

Eigo Pass is a more tailored language matchmaking service with a set rate of 3,000 yen per hour. By comparison, if you signed up with one of the big boy private English schools like Berlitz, they’ll give more like 2000 yen per hour. Eigo Pass website looks like it hasn’t been updated since 2008 though – let’s call it retro.

Jobs other than teaching and where to look for work in Japan

I’m all for flogging your lingo, but there’s more opportunities to take you to Japan than you may think. The category with the second largest amount of job advertisements for foreigners is often in IT. Oh and remember those Nintendo and Playstation consoles, and those Capcom, Namco Bandai games you played as a kid? Well there’s still plenty of people tinkering away across the ditch, so there’s quite a few opportunities in game production.

Here’s a probably too long list of sites where you can look for jobs in Japan from Yaioa. Some of them, such as Craigslist, have some pretty kooky stuff on there, so buyer beware…